PRODUCTS DESIGNED WITH EASE IN MIND

Thank you for placing an order with BimmerVinyl! The purpose of this guide is to help you prepare and install our products. If you don't see your product within this guide and require installation assistance, please contact us at info@bimmervinyl.com

Please also see our Instagram page for install videos and visual assistance:

@bimmervinyl

PRODUCT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR OUR:

- Roundel Edge Kit (All BMW)

- G42 Headlight Eyelid Pre-Cuts

- G42 Taillight Tint Pre-Cuts (also applies to G20/G80)

- G2x/G42/G8x Interior Trim Vinyl Pre-Cuts

For installation of any of our vinyl/sticker products, we recommend the following:

- Heatgun;

- Isopropyl alcohol spray;

- Non-linting microfiber towel;

- Cut-knife.

- Squeegee;

- Trim tucker tool;

- Second set of hands.

Most G-chassis BMW's have 82mm roundels in the front and rear (with the exception of the G70 7 Series, XM, etc., which are 95mm). If you have an E or F-chassis BMW, your rear roundel may be slightly smaller at 74mm. Not to worry, as we sent you the correct size roundels based on the information you provided us with at checkout. However prior to beginning this process, be sure to identify which roundel edge you'll need for the front versus rear. 

Start by preparing the surface of the roundel by cleaning it with isopropyl alcohol. Make sure to clean the edges of your roundel thoroughly. Use a microfiber towel to dry the surface afterwards. You can also lightly heat the badge with your heatgun to dissipate any remaining alcohol. 

Take your first roundel edge and find the cut mark scoring the vinyl. This cut mark is your seam. We highly recommend placing your seam on the bottom of the roundel, where it's least visible. Peel the roundel edge off the backing paper and place the beginning part of the seam at the bottom of the roundel, or at "6:00". You will want to work in a clockwise motion when applying.

Slowly work your way around the roundel. You have a certain degree of freedom when it comes to how much overlap onto the black portion of the roundel you want, but keep two things in mind:

- You will need to clear the "B M W" lettering at the top of the roundel; and 

- You want to leave enough excess to to tuck around the edge and towards the bottom of the roundel. 

Once you have worked around the roundel you will find yourself back at the seam. You will have some excess (this is to account for pre-shrinking). You may either cut the excess off and maintain a 1/8" to 1/4" overlap on your seam, or you can wrap the remainder of the material over the seam towards "7:00" of the roundel. Either/or will suffice, however option A will look cleaner, while option B will reduce the chances of moisture intrusion. 

Now, grab a heatgun and tucker tool and slowly heat the edges of the vinyl going around the roundel. This will soften the material and shrink it, making it easier to tuck the material around the edges. Wait a few seconds after heating the vinyl, and tuck it down and around the edges of the vinyl, completing the seamless edge look. After the edges are tucked, post-heat the vinyl one last time to ensure everything is laying and sticking correctly. 

Repeat this process for the rear.

  After nearly a month of testing and design adjustments, we made the decision to implement a two-piece install procedure (per side) to ease with installation and allow additional choice in placement.

Install Conditions

Make sure you are working/installing in a well-lit and bright environment. 

An ideal installation temperature range is 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit (18-24 degrees Celsius).

Preparation

Prepare the kidney panel surface(s). Use dish soap, or any other non-wax-based soap, with water, to wash and clean the surface(s). 

Your kidney panels, being at the front of your vehicle, may have bugs, tar and/or abrasions on the surface. You can lightly use a clay bar and clay bar lubricant to remove any elevated high spots on the surface(s). Note – this step is not required.

After drying off the surface(s) with a microfiber towel and/or pressurized air, use 50% or 70% isopropyl alcohol to clean the surface(s) again. Alcohol acts as a degreasing agent and is a vital step in the preparation process. Any excess alcohol on the surface(s) can be dried with a microfiber towel.

Included and Additional Required Tools

We’ve included with your order a complimentary install squeegee. When placing your order, you also had the option to purchase wrap gloves. Either/or can be used to lay and secure the transfer tape/vinyl. 

It is recommended you also utilize a heat gun or hair blow dryer for post installation heating. We will touch on this later in the guide.

Installation

Select a side to start on. Your first attempt will most likely be more challenging that your second attempt, so as a rule of thumb, select the same side that corresponds with the hand you write with. For example, if you’re a righty, start with the right side.

Each side is broken up into a top and bottom piece. Take both pieces (WITH THE BACKING PAPER STILL ON) and line them up on the kidney panel. This will help you get an idea of fitment. There are small amounts of space on all sides to leave room for error. The better centered the vinyl, the better the finished product will look.

It is recommended you install the top piece of vinyl first. Use the provided squeegee to moderately squeegee both top and bottom pieces on the transfer tape side. After ensuring the surface is clean and free of contaminants, slowly peel the transfer tape from the backing paper (top portion), the transfer tape should peel the vinyl along with it. Discard of the backing paper.

Holding the top portion from both sides, slowly and evenly apply the transfer tape onto the top half of the kidney panel region. Remember the approximate amount of space on all sides should be even. Once applying the transfer tape to the desired location on the surface, use your squeegee to firmly press the transfer tape/vinyl onto the surface. 

AT THIS POINT – DO NOT PEEL THE TRANSFER TAPE OFF YET.

This is an imperative step in the installation process. You will want to keep the transfer tape ON, as lining up the “teeth” with the bottom portion transfer tape to the top portion transfer tape will be easier. Remove the backing paper from the bottom portion and line up the bottom “teeth” with the top “teeth”. So long as your top portion was lined up properly, the bottom portion should be a piece of cake!

Once you have firmly squeegeed the entire surface, remove both pieces of transfer tape. This will expose the final product! Your done – repeat all steps on the other side now.

Post-Installation

It is a good idea to use a heat gun or hair blow dryer post-installation to ensure all vinyl is firmly adhered to the kidney panel surface(s). 

Maintenance

There isn’t any specific or dedicated maintenance procedures required for our product. However, it is a good idea to avoid using wax based products on the material. SIO2 or ceramic products for protection is suitable. Our material is cast premium so enjoy years of color without issue!

These instructions apply to our Honeycomb, Light and Dark Tint Pre-Cuts for the G42/G87 Chassis. 

Start by preparing the surface of the taillights by cleaning the brake light/blinker portion with isopropyl alcohol. Make sure to clean this portion thoroughly. Use a microfiber towel to dry the surface afterwards. You can also lightly heat the area with your heatgun to dissipate any remaining alcohol. 

Then, peel you tint pre-cut from the backing paper and apply to the taillight, starting on the outer portion (the larger side). As a rule of thumb, it's a good idea to use the top of the brake-light surface area as a guide for lining up your pre-cut. As needed, apply heat with your heat gun to soften the film. As you move towards the inner portion of the taillight, wrap the top of the film around the surface with light-medium tension. Only use heat to soften the film in recessed areas, do NOT use heat to stretch the film. By doing this, you will distort the finish of the film. 

Once applied, use heat conservatively to ensure the film isn't lifting by the edges. 

Repeat for the other side. 

These instructions apply to Gloss Black, Satin Black and Carbon Fiber Eyelid Pre-Cuts for the G42/G87 Chassis. 

Start by preparing the surface of the headlights by cleaning with isopropyl alcohol. Make sure to clean thoroughly. Use a microfiber towel to dry the surface afterwards. You can also lightly heat the area with your heatgun to dissipate any remaining alcohol. 

You will want to start by placing your first eyelid on the outside portion of the headlight and work your way towards the inner portion. When placing your eyelid, attack small portions at a time. As you work your way in, line up the top edge of your eyelid pre-cut with the top edge of the headlight. You may need to apply light-medium stretch to 'round' the outer-most portion of the light. It gets a little tricky when you reach the portion of the headlight where the bumper hangs over. Just take your time and maintain a straight edge on the bottom portion of the pre-cut. 

Once you've reached the inner-most portion of the headlight, you may have some excess (depending on how much stretch you applied or the specific film). This is normal as we also build stretch tolerance into the dimensions to avoid fingering and allow room for horizontal tension. You can either use a blade to cut off the excess (by running the side of your blade against the edge of the headlight - do NOT put the blade directly to your headlight cover), or you can tuck any remainder around the headlight into the recess gap. 

Repeat this process for the other side. 

These instructions apply to iDrive 7/8 Interior Trim Pre-Cut Kits for the G2x, G42, G8x.

Start by preparing the surface of the headlights by cleaning with isopropyl alcohol. Make sure to clean thoroughly. Use a microfiber towel to dry the surface afterwards. You can also lightly heat the area with your heatgun to dissipate any remaining alcohol. 

It's best to start with the center console area and (if you have iDrive 7) complete the dash trim portions afterwards. The center console area region around the gear shifter is the hardest of all pieces to install. This is because a trim tucker tool is required to tuck any excess material around the gear selector panel. Start by lifting your center storage area (arm rest), and you'll see where the trim ends towards the back side. This is your starting point.

Peel the center console area vinyl trim piece off from the backing paper, slowly, and line the back edge of it up with the back of the trim piece. Remember this is a pre-cut, not a bulk install. The vinyl isn't designed to fold around and under the edges, but rather just be flush with the edge.

From there pull the vinyl forwards towards the cupholders, with little to NO stretch, and line up the cut out around the gear selector panel. This is the only portion of the pre-cut where you WILL have some extra material that can be tucked into the gap between the trim and the gear selector panel. Once you've lined up the trim around the gear selector panel, continue to squeegee the material towards the outer edges, starting with the front side and eventually working down the sides. As you squeegee the material down either side, you may need a heatgun to slightly shrink the material. If you are experiencing what looks like "fingers" in the material, this is a good sign you may need some heat. The heat will pre-shrink the material, making it easier to apply. Do not overheat, and most importantly, do not stretch the material. 

Now that the hard part is out of the way, lets move to the cup holder trim piece. Peel the vinyl off the backing paper and line up the bottom edge first, where the chrome accent/bezel is located. From there, you'll use a squeegee or wrap gloves to slightly work the material up towards the top edge. You may have some excess on the sides, which can either be wrapped around or trimmed to remain flush with the trim.

If you have iDrive 8, your work is done! if you have iDrive 7, keep reading.

The two pieces remaining is the trim piece by the driver side air vent, and the trim piece by the passenger glove compartment area. On both of these, the fitment and how you line up the piece with the edges is extremely sensitive. Installing is as easy as placing them on the trim and squeegeeing, but lining up the edges on all sides before committing to the placement is important.  Misaligning any edges may give the illusion that the pre-cut is too small.

For additional installation support, please feel free to contact us.